Tools Needed:

  • 3/32" allen key
  • 9/16" wrench
  • 17mm(11/16") wrench
  • Flat-head screwdriver
  • Scissors


The FabLight crate ships with ratchet straps around the outside, 9/16" hex lag bolts around the base, and clips to hold the crate together. When you receive the crate, first remove the ratchet straps and lag bolts. Then remove the clips on the ramp side of the crate with a flat-head screwdriver. The ramp side of the crate is the short side with the two boards attached, shown on the right in this picture:

The sides and roof can then be moved off the base, and two lag bolts can be used to fix the ramp to the shipping base, as seen here:

Now, remove the next two ratchet straps holding the machine to the floater base, and then remove the cling wrap from the machine. Check under the machine and remove any parts that might be stored there, as in this picture:

Using a 3/32" allen key, remove the screws holding in the two large black side panels on both sides of the machine. This reveals the screw-down feet that are part of the caster wheels. 

The feet have been screwed down for shipping, and need to be raised so that the machine can roll on the wheels.

Attempting to roll the FabLight without suitably raising the feet can result in damage to the wheels, feet, or even the chassis. 

You may need to loosen the nuts with a 17mm(11/16" wrench) on each foot's threaded rod in order to raise them. 

We have provided a 7mm ratcheting hex-wrench inside the ship-kit that can be used on the top of each foot. 

Once the feet are up, the machine can then be rolled off the floater and down the ramp. Move the machine to the desired location in your shop, then screw down the feet again to prevent it from moving. Reattach the large black side panels.

The "ship kit" is in a cardboard box, either under or inside the machine. It has an 8mm allen key that fits the two grey side panels in the top of the machine. Undo the grey side panels to see inside the machine, as shown in the picture below.

From the right side of the machine, you can see the gantry and cutting head. Use a diagonal cutter or scissor to cut the bright pink zip tie holding the cutting head to the back of the Y-axis:

Also on this side, cut the bright pink zip ties holding the Y-axis to the chassis. The gantry and cutting head should both be free to move now.

On the other side of the machine, you'll see a piece of wood screwed down to the pallet with two red-topped screws. Remove the screws and wood, and the pallet should be free to move. These two screws can be reinstalled into the pallet with the springs and clamps included in the ship kit. Refer to the screwed down spring clamps on the right side of the pallet for a visual guide. These spring clamps can be used to secure down thin sheet stock when running jobs.

Close the grey side panels. The machine is now ready to be plugged in using the cables included in the ship-kit:

  • The heavy-duty 8-foot power cord is connected to the MAIN POWER plug, and needs its own 20A circuit.
  • The 6-foot vacuum power cord is connected to VACUUM POWER and goes to a separate 15A circuit.
  • The 2-foot vacuum power adapter is connected to VACUUM and goes to the plug on the vacuum (unless external venting is being used). The vacuum itself can be left in the "ON" setting, and the machine will turn it on and off automatically.
  • The 15-foot air hose is connected to GAS IN, and runs to your air supply. The 1/4" NPT push-connect fitting can be added to your air supply on the other end.
  • The GAS EXHAUST can be left empty -- it is just meant to allow gas released by the regulator to escape from the control panel cavity.
  • The ETHERNET port is currently used for connecting a computer for remote service by the factory, and will be used for a job server in the future.